Hello there! My name is Tara Schmidtke, and I’m a freshman at Memorial High School in Houston. Since a young age my family has loved to travel to new places. I was born and lived in London for the earliest part of my life before moving to Houston. Between the ages of 9 and 12 I also lived in Melbourne, Australia. It was around then that my family started traveling even more. I really love traveling and have been to many places, mainly in the United States and Australia. Even so, I never really had a true “out-of-country” experience; even Australians, with their exotic accents, are a lot like Americans. Therefore I was feeling both intrepid and scared when I visited Ireland this last spring. This is a blog all about my adventures in Ireland, as well as some background information about it and travel tips if you ever want to go, which I highly recommend; it’s a beautiful country. Please enjoy!
Firstly, as they say, location location location! Where is Ireland? Ireland is located off the northwestern coast of Europe. It is a small island southwest of Great Britain. Ireland is a predominantly catholic country, but their ancient Gaelic ancestry also heavily influences their culture. However, Ireland is not the sole country that can claim this scenic island. Northern Ireland, a part of Great Britain (and predominantly Protestant-Christian), also lays claim to the island’s luscious farmland, mild seasons, and rugged landscape. (1)
Ireland is undoubtedly one of the wettest places I have ever been. Its rich soil, very frequent rain, mild climate, and overall lush (note: “lush” does not necessarily mean “warm”- don’t fall prey to the word choice!) environment have earned Ireland the nickname “40 shades of green”. This is due to the claim that you can see up to 40 different shades of green if you look at its satellite image. If you visit you can understand this even better. The green is was shockingly bright, even when it was raining. Making this “greenness” even brighter is the fact that the rest of the land tends to be relatively colorless and grey, even in spring when I went there. Most of the time it is raining (or on the verge of doing so), and Ireland’s people call days when it rains all day “soft days”, and particularly miserable weather is “a day for the stool” (meaning a day so miserable the only thing to do is go to a bar). I cannot stress enough how much you will appreciate a warm, waterproof coat or shell. I myself packed a nice waterproof shell that lacked one important detail- a hood. Why designers would create a waterproof jacket without said feature is beyond me, but you really learn to appreciate dry hair after something like that. Even if you’re going in the summer, when it tends to be dryer, really consider packing waterproof or at least water-resistant shoes and a jacket. If you get colder easier, also pack scarves and other cold-weather accessories. (4)
Above: The Irish flag. The green color on the flagrepresents the native people ofIreland (Roman Catholics) The orange color represents the British supporters of William of Orange who settled in NorthernIreland (Protestants) Below: Map of Ireland and all counties, capital, and roadways
Being an island nation, Ireland boasts a reasonable fishing industry, though it is more popular as a recreational sport than a business. Without question, the primary economic factor in Ireland is its farms. Farming is major part of life in Ireland. Most people tend to visualize potatoes when they think of Ireland and farming, and there is truth in this. However, there are also a large amount of livestock farms. 4 million people live in Ireland, but 8 million sheep and 7 million cows also do! Because of the landscape’s incredible ability to regenerate, the land has been ideal for the cloven animals for generations. However, traditional family farming in Ireland is currently being threated due to “decoupling”- a system in which farmers are paid based on the size of their land rather than the amount of product they produce. This has led to many family farms being forced to shut down in favor of larger commercial farms, causing farming as form of employment to considerably decrease, and with it most likely the population. (2)
When traveling to a foreign country it is always best to know what may be offensive to people there. In my travels in Ireland I found several “do’s and don’ts”, that I myself never would have never considered offensive, but in Ireland these things do exist and they do offend people. Firstly; hand gestures. The universal sign for “peace” (making a V with your extended index and middle finger) is actually a rude gesture in Ireland. Luckily I am not so inclined to walk up to random strangers and throw the peace sign in their face (beware, people of the 60s!) but it was good to know nonetheless. Second; like any native countryman, an Irish person does not particularly like being stereotyped based on nationality. This one is fairly obvious, as long as you don’t shove everything potato into their faces and make tasteless leprechaun jokes, you’ll be fine. Lastly, personal space. Jostling, shoving, brushing past someone, waving your hands adamantly while talking, and a generally relaxed attitude towards someone’s “personal bubble” is not looked kindly on in Ireland. While the people are kind and fairly relaxed, they are just not as touchy feely as us. They tend to value their space, and you will be more likely to come off as respectful if you tone your hand gestures down when you speak. With these few tips, you should know a little more about how to behave. Prove the “rude American” stereotype wrong and be sensitive to their culture. (3) While Irish people tend to all speak fluent English, their original language is Gaelic, a Celtic derived language found only in Ireland today. While it is not necessary, it would be fun and engaging to try and talk to the Irish in their original language. To say hello- “Dia dhuit”, to say goodbye- “Slán”, and as an extra that will probably not be necessary, but is fun “An bhfuil Béarla agat?”- Do you speak English? (7)
Above: a simple cartoon illustration of the "peace-sign", with the middle and index fingers extended Below: the traditional gaelic alphabet that visually resembles the English alphabet with a few exceptions, mainly in the illustrations of G's, R's, T's, and S's
In Ireland all international holidays are observed, including most significant Christian holidays, however there are some celebrations only celebrated in Ireland. One of these is St. Birgid’s Day, that occurs in the beginning of spring. In this celebration reeds and straws are gathered and made into a cross. Brigid is one of the few female saints in Ireland, but she is widely celebrated to this day. (8)
Ireland has many customs and traditions, but one of the most unusual and singular traditions to the country occurs during marriage. Like in mod countries, the bride wears white to symbolize her purity. However, the men sometimes will wear a kilt that is patterned to the specific plaid of their clan, and traditional Irish dress. (10) Irish traditional dress for mean consists of woolen pants or kilts in plaid patterns which often (though not always) had some significance pertaining to their clan or group of affiliation. The women wore woolen dresses similar to the fashion of English women, but of much hardier fabrics (due to climate). Much of what we know of old Irish clothing is from the discovery of artifacts and preserved bodies in bogs. (11)
When in Rome, err, Ireland, eat as the Irish do. Sometimes food says more about a culture than anything else. When traveling in Ireland, i always found that no matter what kind of restaurant I was in, it always offered some variation of stew, particularly "irish stew". This is something of a point of pride with the Irish; their ability to create a hardy, rich stew. The main ingredients are stock (usually chicken), potatoes, onions, lamb or beef (chopped), and whatever fresh vegetables may be seasonal. The stew is highly versatile and is a proper representation of Irish cuisine and its staple foods. It also happens to be delicious.
Above: Representation of Saint Brigid by artist Nancy Oliphant Below: Irish Stew with lamb and seasonal vegetables
The Great Potato Famine- In 1845, an unprecedented disaster swept across Ireland. Over 1 million people died and over 1 million people emigrated. This was the Great Potato Famine. In the 1590's potatoes were first introduced to Ireland. Given its climate, the root was soon found to thrive, and grow in popularity. It was much more nutritious and make to produce than bread, which was the staple food of most Northern European peasants at the time. By the 1800s potatoes had become Irelands staple crop. However this all changed with the appearance of an mysterious fog that swept across the farmland surrounding Dublin, the nation's capital. In its wake was left shriveled and black potatoes, unfit to be eaten. This was later proved to be an airborne fungus introduced by traders in the capital city. It took many decades for Ireland to recover. Meanwhile the Irish emigrants found new countries in which to live and spread their culture around the world. (5)
Above: The Potato Famine Memorial in Dublin Below: Emigrants Leave Ireland, an engraving by Henry Doyle depicting the emigration to the United States because of the Great Famine in Ireland.
The two largest cities in Ireland are Dublin and Cork. Dublin is the capital and boasts a population of 1,024,27, and Cork is a seaside city of 190,384 people. (12)
While in Ireland I visited the Irish Jewish Museum. While this seems like an unusual place to go considering that 98% of all Irish people are Catholic, it was fascinating to witness the way a minority lived in such a dominant country. Sadly, the Jewish population is in decline and it is likely only a matter of time before it is gone. I was glad to get the chance to witness this small community's history. It even had a preserved synagogue and traditional kitchen made ready for the Sabbath dinner. Having no real religious affiliation myself, I always feel rather awkward entering any sort of religious place, like I'm somehow intruding on whoever is in there. However, the people here were really open and accepting, eager to show us their culture. (13)
I also went to see the Proclamation Sculpture, a memorial to Irish martyrs. This permanent outdoor structure was full of irony; located directly across the street from one of Ireland's most notorious prisons, it stands as a tribute of remembrance and sorrow. This actually gave me chills and I refused to stand with my back to the prison the whole time we were there. (14)
The only time we ventured out of Dublin was to visit the mound of earth and dirt known as, yes- the Hill of Tara. I don't think I could resist going there. It is a burial mound of ancient kings, morbidly fascinating to me and of course being named after me I had to go. It was rather unimpressive from the ground but then we went on a helicopter ride (my first ever) and were able to see how beautiful and sculptural it looked, though I almost regretted my decision to ride the helicopter once we landed. My ears were ringing incessantly from the noise! If you have never been in a helicopter before and don't like loud noises, you have been warned. (15)
One of Ireland's most infamous prisons was built in 1787 directly on the gallows - where public hangings had already taken place for years. These executions continued throughout its existence both inside the gates and out, including those that were the catalyst for Ireland's emergence as an independent nation. It is called Kilmainham Gaol. It was a little chilling to visit, because it just felt cold and empty. I always get this melancholy numbness whenever I go through a place like that. You could almost feel the weight of the lives lost around you. Anyone who has a fear of ghosts, this place is not for you! (16)
Above: Hill of Tara aerial view Below: Kilmainham Gaol interior
However when I went there political relations with Ireland and the Great Britain had been a little shaky of late, and Ireland’s inner turmoil did nothing to alleviate this stress. They were recently forced to arrest the head of their Irish Nationalist Sinn Fein party, for the suspected murder of a woman who disappeared over 10 years ago. Meanwhile, Ireland's age old problems prevailed; British loyalists pushing for unity with England, clashing with Irish nationalists and reformation parties alike. The social tension between these three types of political parties was palpable while I was there, and I strongly suggest not bringing up any issue regarding this subject in casual conversation. It's highly sensitive to all involved. After all, would you ever feel entirely comfortable if a foreigner was trying to make casual conversations about your country's deepest problems and issues? Issues that have a violent history of suffering, no less? Most likely not. It will not affect your travels, however. Just don't bring it up if you can help it.
A popular pastime in Ireland today is the old and much beloved sport of Hurling. Hurling is an outside sport and played on a 137m long grass pitch. It is like a cross between lacrosse, hockey, and soccer. It can be brutally violent, just like american football. Watching violent and heavily physical sports like that always remind me of the ancient Roman gladiators, dueling it out to the roar of a crowd. The game is relatively simple. Two teams of 15 players compete between two goal posts positioned at each end of the pitch. There are a number of different leagues within Ireland such as the National League and the All-Ireland League. Teams come from each region, county and the four provinces. It is very popular and aired on television weekly. (19)
However, my overall my favorite part of the trip was meeting all the people! I loved being able to interact with them and talk to them. They were very forgiving of any of my ignorances and tried to be polite when I was clueless. The Irish are charming and have a great sense of humor. I highly recommend visiting and getting to know them and their country! (20)